Car Security

Posted by admin | Automotive Locksmith | Thursday 21 January 2010 6:01 pm

Stopping Crime on Your Vehicle

Locking wheel nuts can help keep your alloys safe

Deadlocks

Deadlocks stop the door from opening, even if a thief breaks the window to use the interior handle. ‘One- touch’ deadlocks are set whenever you lock the car.

Marked parts
Have the glazing etched with the vehicle identification number (Vin). Better still, go for a traceability scheme where the glass and other parts are marked and recorded on a secure database. Future buyers can then cross-check the car’s ID with the database.

Secure storage

Genuinely secure, lockable cabin storage is still rare, meaning you have to remove all valuables when you leave the car – a real nuisance if you’re only going for a quick loo break.

Secure stereos

Becoming the norm on new cars, but check that the stereo is Pin-coded, vehicle-specific (won’t work in another car), or multi-part (display is separate from main audio unit).

Locking wheel nuts

These need to be better than the two-pin socket-secured parts some car makers supply. Go for locking wheel nuts with a laser-cut groove to make it harder for thieves to pinch your alloy wheels.

Laminated side-glass

This ’security glass’ isn’t impregnable, but it takes much more time and energy to break than standard toughened glass. The extra disturbance also increases the chances of a thief getting caught in the act.

Tracking devices

Tracking devices can be invaluable if a car is stolen, but remember they usually need an annual subscription – you won’t have any protection if this isn’t paid.

Physical locks

If you have a driveway, consider a lockable bollard. If not, a wheel clamp can make life more difficult for thieves. Always lock car doors and boot, and close windows (even when paying for petrol or other quick activities). Take your keys with you.

If your car doesn’t have an electronic immobilizer, consider using a strong steering-wheel lock to help safeguard your car overnight.

American Locksmith

Posted by admin | locksmith | Wednesday 20 January 2010 4:22 pm
Excerpted from “The Smithy: Blacksmith, Nailsmith, Locksmith, Tinsmith and Gunsmith”
from the Collections at Historic Bethlehem [PA]
Despite the occupational title, Bethlehem locksmiths were often masters of several different, yet allied trades. As such, they were probably the most skilled of all the metalsmiths. Indeed, there was considerable overlapping in the metal trades in the 18th century, not only in Bethlehem, but also throughout the colonial world. Locksmithing required the use of forge and anvil. While good blacksmiths could make padlocks and simple rim locks, the locksmith also required the knowledge of lathe turning, spring tempering, rivet and screw making, precise fitting and hole punching.
In the Bethlehem account books between 1756 and 1762, the trade is often referred to as the “locksmith and gunstock maker.” Anton Schmidt and his son Anton were not only locksmiths, but also accomplished blacksmiths, tinsmiths, and plumbers (those who work in sheet lead). The locksmith worked in tin plate, sheet iron, brass, steel, pewter, copper, lead, and wood and made and repaired not only locks and keys, but also saddle mountings, small tools, hinges, screws, and gunstocks. Although the Moravians were pacifists, they saw nothing immoral in the production or the repair of firearms. During the French and Indian War (1755-1763), for example, the locksmith repaired dozens of muskets, swords, and other military equipment for the Pennsylvania Provincial troops.
In Bethlehem’s account books, the wide range of work accomplished by the locksmith is evident from the following excerpts:
May 19, 1765 Chars. Folck for mending 2 rifles £ – 4.9 –*
June 30, 1756 Sebastian Graf for a Lock & iron and iron Bands about a chest for his daughter £ –.8. –
Jan. 31, 1757 Oil Mill for mending a shovel £ –.1. –
Feb. 24, 1757 For lock and hinges on a box £– .8.–
March 22, 1757 For Tin work & 6 screws on the Coffin £1.10.–
March 31, 1757 For saddle mountings £ –.4.–
May 31, 1757 Dyer for an Iron Ring on a Kettle £ –.1.6
July 30, 1757 Potter for incompasing with Brass and graving out a mould for stoves £ –.4. –
May 31, 1758 Joyner for Locks, Hinges, Screws &c. £ –.16.6
Sept. 18, 1758 John Lischer Dr. to Locksmith for stocking & repairing a Rifle £1.5. –
May 31, 1759 For mending a Coffee mill £ –.1.6
July 31, 1760 Pewterer for mending a Spoon mould £ –.2. –
Aug. 30, 1760 For mending a saw £ –.2. –
Oct. 30, 1760 Sope Boiler for an Iron Ladle £ –.5. –
July 31, 1761 Tanner for mending a Chafing dish £ –.2. –
*prices are given in pounds (£), shillings (s), and pence (d) in the form £.s.d
One of the most interesting groups of entries, however, is that of the production of “pipe heads.” Thousands of clay tobacco “pipe heads” were produced by the locksmith between 1756 and 1762. Apparently because of his ability to acquire and/or make molds, the locksmith and not the potter made clay pipes in Bethlehem. The pipes were fired by the potter and then transferred to the Strangers’ Store for resale.
With the heavy schedule of building in early Bethlehem, it is easy to understand why the skills of a locksmith were so necessary. The success of the locksmith probably depended on two aspects of the lock-its appearance and the complexity of its mechanism. Because most of the locks were enclosed in a case that was mounted on the exterior of the door, it was incumbent on the locksmith to make his product attractive. Most of these cases had pleasing rectangular shapes and were made of sheet iron, while the cases for richly furnished houses were made of brass.
The knobs were generally made of brass and were either round or egg-shaped. There were usually two escutcheons on the outside of the door, one for the knob and the other for the keyhole. The earliest knobs were made of three pieces of brass. The round or egg-shaped portion was made of two halves soldered together: a back bar with a square hole in it was attached to one side so that the knob could shift the latch-bolt. Later, brass knobs seem to have been stamped from one piece of metal, to which the back bar was attached in the usual manner.
It has been pointed out that the work of the locksmith required ingenuity and accuracy. The cases were usually fitted with a precision that suggests machine production. The front plate and the rim, or edge, of the lock were joined with small rivets, which were so perfectly fitted and turned with a hammer that their location is often difficult to detect. The various bolts were probably rough-forged and then filed to their final form. The bolts on fine locks were sometimes draw filed and polished before they were finally fitted within the case
The ingenuity of the locksmith was challenged in the arranging of the impediments, or wards, within the lock case. These circular fins, attached to one or two plates of the lock, were placed concentrically with the keyhole and created the need for the various slots, called steps, in the bit of the key. Their value from a practical point of view was greatly overrated, for a clever “lock-picker” could take a key with a blank bit, cover the bit with wax, and quickly get the impression of the wards on the key. With the imprint of the wards on the bit, he could quickly file or saw them and open the lock. It was also possible to fabricate a key with a narrow bit with a wide end, which would miss all of the wards, but still throw the lockbolt in the usual manner. These keys were usually long and thin and were called “skeleton” keys.
It is evident that the art of key making was just as important as the manufacture of locks. The usual door key consisted of three parts, the bit, bow, and stem. Keys were roughly forged to the approximate shape and then the lathe worker and the filer took over the work. By piercing the bow and bending it at a right angle, the stem of the key could be placed on a lathe and given a round form. Any round ornamentation on the stem was also put on at this time. The apertures in the bow and bit were formed by punching, sawing, or filing, or a combination of all three processes. A key had to be made of good metal to withstand the constant pressure on the bolt, which was difficult to move at times. The best keys were made of mild steel which was soft while it was being made, but was later case-hardened. This procedure allowed the outer surface of the key to be hard and withstand much wear while the inner portion of the key was soft enough to twist before it would break. These keys were called “steel” keys.
The most common type of door lock used in America is called a rim lock. The case and keeper were made of brass or sheet iron, and were attached to the surface of doors by nails or wood screws with round or oval heads. Most of the rim locks used on outside doors were of the three-bolt type. There was a spring latch-bolt that moved horizontally with the knob. (A well known variation of this type was the English “Carpenter” lock in which the latch-bolt moved vertically instead of horizontally). The main bolt was moved with a key. When the bolt was thrown forward, the door was locked; when it was thrown backward, the door was unlocked. A spring was sometimes added to the main bolt assembly to complicate further the opening of the lock by a person who did not have the correct key. A night bolt was frequently located on the bottom edge of rim locks; it could be operated only by hand on the inside of the door. Some locks have only a main bolt and a latch-bolt, while other have only a main bolt. The latter types were usually used on inside doors.
At least one special type of rim lock was used in Pennsylvania where German rather than English traditions were followed in lock making. This lock differs from the rim locks previously described in that the latch-bolt is moved by levers instead of knobs. They are of the three, two, and one bolt types, and have a part called a striker instead of a keeper. They are made completely of iron, with only a very few exceptions.
A variation of the “Dutch” or “German” rim lock is an early latch-lock which, is attached to only one plate mounted on the surface of the door. The latch is moved by levers or knobs on the inside and outside of the door. The unique feature of this lock is that the lever on the outside of the door is attached or detached by twisting it “off” or “on.” The door is locked by twisting the lever off and placing it in the owner’s pocket or under the door mat. This latter procedure seems to have been a universal custom and proof of the statement that “locks are only for honest people.”
Another type of lock used throughout the period when locks were made by hand was the stock lock. It is said that it was called a “stock lock” because the case was made of wood and the mechanism was made of metal. The case was usually made of oak wood and the metal parts of iron; however, some of the more expensive models had brass bolts and key holes were bushed with brass fittings. The outer surfaces of the case were also fitted with brass inlays to make them more attractive.
A special type of stock lock was called the Bambury lock. The mechanism of the common stock lock was made completely of metal and mechanism was inletted into the wood. The mechanism of the Bambury type was attached to the case of wood, a procedure which was less costly and less durable.
Throughout the period of handmade locks a great many variations of door locks were made, as well as many lesser locks, such as the well-known padlock. The most frequently used padlock in America seems to be the one, found principally in Pennsylvania, which is shaped like a question mark with a bar across the opening. Very few signed locks of this type have survived; none have been identified as the product of an American craftsman. It seems logical to assume that most of these locks were made in Germany and that a small number were made in Pennsylvania.
Up to the 18th century, lock making principles had not changed in three hundred years or more. The nineteenth century, however, is frequently referred to as a period of great inventiveness in America in which locksmithing certainly must be included as one of the major activities of the time. During the middle of that century a period known as the “Great Lock Controversy” occurred, in which every locksmith seems to be engaged in picking his competitor’s locks. An American named Hobbs bragged that he could pick any lock and made good his boast by opening all the locks made in England and exhibited at the Crystal Palace in London in 1851.
Linus Yale, Sr. was one of the first men to make real progress in producing a lock that could not be “picked.” His son, Linus, Jr., improved on his father’s innovations by producing machine-made locks around 1840. In 1861 and 1865 he took out patents on what is now called the Yale cylinder lock. The Yales were joined by other lock manufacturers and today the modern cylinder lock with its tumblers and fitted key seems to be about as good as a lock needs to be. (From: Henry J. Kauffamn, Metalworking Trades in Early America, 1995.)
Research has not been done on the kinds of locks produced by Bethlehem’s locksmiths. However, Bethlehem’s locksmiths managed to survive well into the 19th century, largely by adapting and diversifying their businesses. Ernst Gehbe tried a stove business for a while. Joseph Micksch probably went the farthest in attempting to diversify his business when he tried to open an oyster shop in 1824. Eventually, however, the locksmiths succumbed to the era of improved transportation, specialization, and standardization.

Tubular Lock Picks

Posted by admin | locks | Friday 15 January 2010 2:20 pm

Tubular lock picks are designed to give picking aficionados and professionals a chance to pick complex tubular locks. Traditional methods of lock picking rarely work effectively on these kinds of locks. To those who are comfortable picking standard locks, tubular locks can present a bit of a challenge. If you come upon a tubular lock without adequate equipment at your side, you could find yourself spending a lot of time with that particular lock.

A standard tubular lock pick will only contain seven or eight pins. The name comes from their cylindrical shape, which matches that of the locks that they pick. Tubular lock picks have been used since the 1930s to pick locks on most coin-operated vending machines, like laundry machines, cigarette machines, jukeboxes, and pinball machines.

Using Tubular Lock Picks

Tubular pin tumbler locks are generally considered to be safer and more pick-resistant than standard pin-tumbler locks. Tubular locks are found on many vending machines such as coin-operated washers and dryers, bicycle locks, and are even used in many retail stores to lock jewelry showcases.

Tubular lock picks are made to compromise the 7 or 8 pins present in a given tubular lock. Tubular lock picks are specialized tools and require more skill to use than “standard” lock picks. Take a look at our selection of 7 and 8 pin tubular picks, and specialty tubular picks.

Tubular picks are inserted into the lock and turned clockwise with light to medium tension. As the tool is (gently) pushed into the lock, each of the picks is slowly forced down until they stop, binding the driver pins behind the shear line of the lock. When the final pick is pushed down, you’ve aligned the pin segments with the shearline allowing the lock to open. Voila! With patience and practice you’ll be able to open a tubular lock very quickly.

Here at LockPickShop, we offer many different kinds of picks for use with just about any kind of lock. Our picks are made from high quality, US made stainless steel for long-lasting performance. We offer picks in many different sizes, many compatible with foreign-made locks, and we market these quality tools at low prices. Many professionals and hobbyists won’t shop anywhere else once they start dealing with us.

If you are looking to practice the art of lock picking, we also carry a range of training materials at LockPickShop. Find out for yourself how fulfilling lock picking can be. For more information about our many lock-picking products, contact us. For immediate answers to your questions, take advantage of the ‘Live Chat’ option–this allows you to send an instant message and speak to one of our representatives live during business hours!

Senior Citizen’s Crime prevention

Posted by admin | Home Security | Wednesday 13 January 2010 12:35 pm

Of all the age groups senoir citizens ususally have a lower crime rate with the exception of purse snatching, home repairs, frauds and scams. Crimes of violence are most feared by older people because these types of crimes get so much press attention. These types of are least likely to happen to a senior citizen. Most murders and assaults are usually committed by a relative, friend not by a stranger. This is not to say not to be wary of strangers but to also be aware of your surroundings with all people at all times. A rape of a woman over 65 rarely happens. Always walk and show confidence in a relaxed manner. Make breif eye contact with approaching strangers. No matter how a senior citizen is victimized the crime has a greater effect emotionally and financially. Crimes to older people can be very devastating. We all have heard the expression, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Be sure your home has good locks, and use them. One thing you might do is replace the striker plate screws with longer 31/2″ screws. They will be long enough to penetrate into the door jam not just the door molding. Know your neighbors and have some idea of their family routine. If you see something out of the ordinary call your local law enforcement. They would rather do that than show up on a crime scene. Form neighborhood watch group in your area. If you start experiencing a higher crime rate start walking in groups in your area. Some neighborhood groups patrol in cars and have citizens band radios. Post signs in the area informing would be criminals of the watch group. Let your neighborhood know your home is a safe haven for a child and they can go to it in case of an emergency. Install a “wide angle” peep hole at a level that will be comfortable for your height. Don’t let anyone into your home unless they adequately show proper indentification. Even then confirm the person with the company they represent. If you have any suspicions don’t let them in. Tell them you will call for help if they need it and call the police of this contact. Trim all shrubbery to waist level. Don’t have any shrubbery that will block windows or provide a place where an attacker my hide. When you return home before unlocking you car doors, look around you and be sure there in no one is present or have followed you home. Some attacks have ocurred while a person was getting out of their car or walking to get into their home. If possible have the outside light on a timer if you will be coming home after dark. It’s not good to have it on during the day. It will be a clear beacon that might let a criminal know you are not there but will be coming home after dark.

Lindsay Lohan refuses to pay Locksmith

Posted by admin | Random Locksmith News | Tuesday 12 January 2010 5:45 pm

NEW YORK – Actress Lindsay Lohan was forced to call in a locksmith when she got stranded outside on and off girlfriend Samantha Ronson’s Hollywood home, but refused to pay him when she managed to enter the house through an open window.

In video footage posted on TMZ.com, Lohan is seen walking around the front entrance of the DJ’s house on Tuesday night while a friend, known only as Christy, watches the professional work on unlocking the door.

Imdb.com reports that Lohan is then heard telling her pal, “What the f**k, the lock just came undone”, referring to one of the windows, before disappearing out of view as her pal told the locksmith, “You know what sir, we already got in, thanks. We just broke in. We just found a way in.”

But the man refused to leave without at least collecting his $39 call-out-fee and Lohan turned to the paparazzi who were capturing her every move for advice about what to do.

“This guy… is asking me to pay him but he didn’t get me in, Christy did. Can you tell him? He didn’t even get me in. He’s trying to charge me $300. I’ve paid these guys before, $80, and now he wants money for trying to get me in, he didn’t do his job,” Lohan told a reporter there.

After being encouraged not to hand over the cash, Lohan offered the locksmith $20, before returning indoors and refusing to pay anything, prompting the man to return to his van empty-handed.

Evil Locksmiths in the UK

Posted by admin | Locksmith Stories | Tuesday 12 January 2010 12:31 pm

Please someone tell me that I’m not the only victim of locksmiths from hell.

First let me admit that I’m to blame for starting this disaster. My only defence for doing something as stupid as locking myself out of my house is that I’ve just moved and hadn’t yet worked out the new front door.

But what followed definitely wasn’t my fault.

I rang 118118 on my mobile and asked for the numbers of three locksmiths to be texted to me, saying that I wanted ones with the local phone code.

But only one of three texts had the local code – and that number was unobtainable.

That left me with two 0800 numbers, which is what I wanted to avoid, but what was I to do? For all I knew, there was only one local locksmith, and he’d closed down.

I called one of the 0800 numbers and got UK locksmiths (www.uklocksmiths.net and www.unitedkingdomlocksmiths.com). So I asked the obvious questions: how much and how long.

The answers were £55, which seemed reasonable, and “he’ll be there very, very soon”, which sounded great.

Both answers proved hopelessly wide of the mark.

That first phone call of mine was made about 9am.

At 10.45 I was told: “He’s ten minutes away.”

At 11.20: “He’s just around the corner.”

The locksmith must have been going backwards, because at 11.45 he was “30-35 minutes away”.

Perhaps I should have told them to get lost and have tried the other 0800 number. But most people, I expect, use a locksmith once in a blue moon and for all I knew this kind of delay was normal.

After three and a half hours he finally arrived.

Only then was I told the full cost of the service.

£55 was just the call-out fee. Drilling the lock and replacing it, plus VAT, would bring the total bill to £293.
Yes, £293.

I don’t know why I didn’t ask him politely to leave. Sticking a brick through a window and then calling a glazier would surely have been cheaper. Perhaps I was suffering from borderline hypothermia (it really was a very cold morning).

Or maybe, like so many people who’ve locked themselves out of their own house, the desperation to get back inside over-rode my normal critical faculties.

The first thing I did when I got inside and the feeling returned to my frozen fingers was to flick through Yellow Pages. It was full of locksmiths whose phone numbers began with the local code.

Why didn’t 118118 give me any of them?

How To Use a Slim Jim

Posted by admin | Locksmith Guides | Friday 8 January 2010 1:03 pm

Learning how to use a slim jim can be a very valuable experience when you find yourself locked out of your car. Slim jims are great products for getting out of such jams, as they can be used to open car doors without the use of keys. To use a slim jim correctly, however, one must put in the necessary hours to study and practice the procedure for opening a car door with one of these devices.

The process of learning how to use a slim jim can be a tricky procedure. Slim jims look like strips of metal, one end of which is molded into an odd-looking shape. It is certainly not apparent at first glance how these devices open doors. One must figure out not only how these devices work, but how car door locks work in order to use a slim jim.

Learning how to use a slim jim starts with an understanding of car door locks. Most car door locks function by means of a control arm. The control arm activates when the car key is turned in the lock, but can also be bypassed in order to open the door without a key. The slim jim’s notched end is used to access this control arm via the car window.

Courtesy of:  Lock Pick Shop

Lockout Tools

Posted by admin | Locks/Keys/Safes | Wednesday 6 January 2010 4:25 pm


se a Japanese tool for car lockouts primarily on Japanese cars with thumb locks, and on some Chryslers; learn how to from our expert locksmith in this free auto emergency locksmith-training video. Japanese-Made Car Lockout Tools.

Being a Certified Locksmith

Posted by admin | Locksmith Stories | Monday 4 January 2010 3:56 pm

Simple Entry

Locksmiths get people in when they are locked out. Hopefully the person hiring the locksmith belongs in the place they hired the locksmith to break into, but it is not always the case. My first choice was to see a picture ID identifying the person and matching the address of the property. However, for many legitimate reasons ID may not be available. For example, it may be locked inside the place. Or, they might have just moved to that location and not had their ID changed yet to match their address. In this case I would use their ID to verify their name, and then tell the person that once I had gotten them in they would produce a piece of mail, preferably a utility bill addressed to them at the address in question, or perhaps a lease. I let them know in advance that if they couled not produce evidence that they belonged in the place I would call the police.

Even that didn’t work every time. I picked a lock for one young man who promptly produced mail with his name on it corroborated by his identification once inside. Then his girlfriend showed up and was angry because she had kicked him out the week before. She threatened to call the police and implied that I was to blame, too.

“I think you should call the police,” I said. “But as far as I’m concerned, you might as well arrest one of my screwdrivers.”

When she asked me what I meant, I said, “I’m just your boyfriend’s tool, here. He produced satisfactory identification and I let him in. If he does not belong here you should call the police. I will be happy to wait here for them to come.”

She said that that would not be necessary. I gave her a business card, the boyfriend paid me and I left. In a few days she called me back and had me change her locks.

Lockouts are not a very good business. They are not conveniently scheduled, but happen at completely random times. The person who is locked out will sometimes call several locksmiths and hire the first one who shows up, leaving the others to waste their time. Locksmiths do not like this. More than once I arrived at a lockout to find two different competitors’ trucks already there, and we agreed that we would all leave and leave the inconsiderate lockout victim stranded. While we were wasting our time on behalf of this lockout, we could have been doing our scheduled work instead and making real money.

There are a few disreputable locksmiths who specialize in lockouts. A person who is locked out after hours can expect to pay one of these sharks several hundred dollars to get them back in, and may end up with ruined hardware and a damaged door besides. Consumers need to be careful whom they hire. The police may have someone to recommend. Otherwise a neighborhood locksmith from a good neighborhood might be a wise choice. Unfortunately when you are locked out you are in many ways at the mercy of fate and the locksmith.

A locksmith might be disreputable if:

  • Their company vehicle is a pink Cadillac
  • They arrive dressed in formal attire
  • Their primary tool for gaining entry is a large pair of pliers

So have a good look at the company truck, the locksmith, and the locksmith’s tools.

Perhaps you can go to a friend’s house and see if there are any locksmith reviews online for your town, or ask your landlord, your neighbors or your friends to see if they can recommend a reputable locksmith.

Lockout Situations

Lockouts range from mundane to disturbing. Usually I was sent by a landlord or management company to break into an abandoned property and change the locks. Ho hum. But the occasional scantily clad college girl was always a favorite.

“I’m not wearing any underwear. How about we split the cost?”

I found it difficult to argue with a woman who was not wearing any underwear. I would still require her to produce identification once inside her home. People would often be annoyed when I required this from such an obviously honest person, but as they found their ID it usually dawned on them that this was a good thing. For one thing, it proved that I was reputable. After you watch someone break into your home with little if any damage or trouble, it’s nice to know they are a reputable person.

On more than one occasion I was hired by neighbors or a landlord to gain entry to the residence of a person of advanced years who had not been seen for a period of time. Not knowing what one may find on the other side of a door makes it difficult to concentrate. The sight of a dead body stays with you a long time.

Range of Difficulty

Lockouts vary greatly in difficulty, though most are not difficult. That is why some disreputable locksmiths hire unskilled help to do them. Most of the time people are locked out by a key-in-lever or key-in-knob lock as shown at right. Often I would get through a lock like this using a technique called ’shimming’, which can take a matter of seconds. If the lock is properly installed, this method is not usually usable, but since most of these locks are installed by contractors who choose not to read the directions or use an installation template, many of these locks are not properly installed and can be quickly opened by this method. If the customer was present while I shimmed their lock open in five seconds, they invariably wanted a discount but I did not give it to them because, as I explained to them, they were not paying for my time, they me for the fact that I knew how to do this without hurting their lock and they didn’t.

Some of the indigents and college kids hired by less reputable locksmiths use an adjustable pliers to simply wrench this kind of lock off the door. Then they sell the victim a new doorknob lock (worth maybe $30 at Home Depot) for several hundred dollars. If you are locked out and your locksmith pulls out a big pair of pliers, beware.

If the lock was properly installed and I could not shim it, I tried to pick it. I was a fair but not expert lock picker. I averaged around seventy percent with standard locks. This was a quick and easy entry, usually accomplished in less than ten minutes, but people were happy to pay for it because it seemed so magically skillful, and of course it was fun for me. If I could not pick the lock due to lack of skill or because the lock was pick resistant, I would use a power tool to destroy the cylinder. I kept a variety of replacement cylinders in my truck in order to replace those I was forced to destroy.

Lockouts that occurred because of lock malfunction could be either the easiest or the most difficult. When people told me their key would not turn, I asked, “Well, did you lubricate it?” Then I would sometimes lose a job when the person chose to go down to the hardware store and buy some silicone spray or other lock lubricant, or after hours to a convenience store to buy some lightweight general purpose lubricant, but other times the person would not be able to do this – take the case of the college girl with no underwear – and I would have to come out and spritz the lock for them. I rarely discounted for these service calls because I had given them fair warning and an option to avoid the expense.

At the opposite end of the difficulty spectrum there are certain deadbolts and New York police locks that malfunction or wear out in a certain way that they cannot be opened by key from the outside. In these cases it is useless to pick or otherwise attack the cylinder because the customer actually has the key, but although it still turns fine, it will not operate the lock. Such lockouts may require more than an hour of hard work removing the cylinder with power and hand tools without harming the door, so that the lock itself can be destroyed. Afterwards, of course, the entire lock must be replaced.

Unique Situations

I had a number of repeat lockout customers. Some people just lock themselves out all the time. I did what I could for them. I started a service in which I stored their keys for them for a fee of ten dollars and charged them the regular key duplication price for making them a set of keys during regular business hours or a reduced overtime service rate for driving into the city to make them a set of keys after hours.

One customer near my shop locked himself out on his roof deck as Hurricane Gloria was approaching. He lived in one of the 19th century townhouses down in Charles River Circle. His neighbors were James Taylor and the president of the Boston Company. Since he eschewed my key storage service, I had to ask a neighbor to let me in through their house and out through their roof door. Once on the roof, I crossed to his roof and was able to pick the lock as the storm clouds raced overhead and the darkening edge of the storm drew closer.

Divorce lockouts were a challenge. The soon-to-be ex-wife would call and say she was locked out, so I would go get her in. Then, of course, she would have me change the locks. Then the husband would call with the same request, but I refused to work both sides like that. I referred him to a competitor.

One divorce lockout defeated me. It turned out the husband had nailed the doors shut from the inside and rappelled down the side of the building from a fourth story window. I told the poor woman to call a contractor, because it was likely all her doors would have to be replaced.

Late one night I got a call. I had a system in which the customer could leave a message on my machine and then press a number to page me. The guy’s voice on the voice mail said this:

“You gotta come. You gotta come quick. My girlfriend is handcuffed to the bed and her parents are comin’ home any second!”

And as the father of two daughters I said to the guy, telepathically as I hung up the phone:

“Pal, you are gonna get exactly what you deserve.”

Locksmith Opens a Car

Posted by admin | Local Locksmiths, Locksmith Services, locksmith | Friday 1 January 2010 6:25 pm

Watch this locksmith open a car

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